Hamachi Jalapeño sashimi from Clarke Cooke House
Hamachi Jalapeño sashimi from Clarke Cooke House

What She’s Having: Newport in Five Perfect Bites

In Newport, a visceral slice of Gilded Age history comes with a tour of The Breakers or The Elms, a cruise on an antique schooner presents a snapshot of seafaring culture, and a hike to Hanging Rock via the Norman Bird Sanctuary offers breathtaking views of Aquidneck Island’s natural beauty. So many reasons to visit Newport, so little time—but if you’re like me, history, culture, and nature go hand in hand with one of the most important curiosities about any place: What does it taste like?

For day trippers or overnighters looking to experience Newport by the bite, you’re in luck. Today, the island is home to James Beard Award nominees, farm- and sea-to-table gurus, chefs making their own ramen and sourdough-based pizza, and award-winning winemakers. Look them up and create your own tasting tour, or check out these five magical bites, guaranteed to create lasting sense memories of beautiful Newport.

Bombolone at Bottega Bocconi

Say ciao to your Newport morning with an espresso and a magical confection from Bottega Bocconi, located around the corner from First Beach. The Italian deli, owned by Bologna-born Marco Minieri, is beloved for its Piadine sandwiches made on unleavened flatbread with a selection of imported cured meats and cheeses, perfect to take to the beach. There are olives and artichoke hearts, roasted peppers and more, along with ready-to-bake entrees and specialty items tough to source outside of Italy. But it’s morning, and if you’ve only got one bite to spend here, it has to be a Bombolone.

This is how Italians do donuts, apparently, but this ain’t no Dunkin’. These fluffy, puffy clouds of sweet magnificence are filled with an unreasonably creamy-smooth chocolate or vanilla filling. Pair with a cappuccino. To. Die.

Bombolone from Bottega Bocconi

New England Clam Chowder at The Black Pearl

In Newport, any debate on clam chowder and its recipe’s legitimacy eventually winds up squarely at The Black Pearl. Bacon or no bacon? Fresh dill or thyme? Should it be thick and porridge-like, lightly creamy, or brothy? Does Pearl chowder originate (gasp) from a can, the base then doctored up to create what the masses have been lining up for for decades? Suspected but unconfirmed.

Newsflash: It doesn’t matter. Whatever they’re putting in that kettle is alright with this soup fiend. Trust me when I tell you that this is how New England clam chowder was meant to taste, with a brothy-creamy, but not at all thick base, hefty spoonfuls of chopped clams, no bacon, and an appropriately small number of potatoes, the “filler” in all cheapo chowders. I grab it to go from the Pearl’s Annex window on the wharf and chow it on the dock while watching the boats go by.

Clam chowder bowl at The Black Pearl

Lobster Roll at the Newport Lobster Shack

Somebody in your car is jonesing a lobster roll, and though you can nab one at nearly every restaurant in town, why do that when you can get yours straight from the source? The Newport Lobster Shack, located at the end of Long Wharf, is a fishermen’s co-op run by local lobstermen whose catch arrives daily for live lobsters to go, cooked lobster dinners, lobster bisque, and classic stuffed cold rolls. A tented picnic area sits astride the shack, overlooking the harbor. It doesn’t get fresher. Lunch!!

Lobster roll at Newport Lobster Shack

Hamachi Jalapeño and/or Abi Roll at the Clarke Cooke House

It should never be a question of “if” you’ll be stopping by the Clarke Cooke House while in Newport, but when. Arguably the island’s most emblematic restaurant, the place is a living testament to Newport’s sailing history, the America’s Cup victories of the Ted Turner era, and old New England charm. It’s also a scene, with multiple levels and vibes, a boys’ club of bartenders young and old, and a crowd that spans generations.

There’s so much to love about the place that the classic, beautifully executed New England cuisine might be overlooked. Don’t. From raw bar offerings just plucked from the sea to wood-grilled filet mignon, from house-made country pâté to sautéed Big Glory Bay King Salmon, the food here is consistently fantastic. But it’s summer, we’re looking for “that” bite, and that means the Cooke House Summer Sushi menu is all you need this visit.

There are 16 rolls, each beautifully constructed, the fish as fresh as the sea air wafting in from the harbor. The Abi, a salmon, tuna, and avocado roll topped with a thin slice of jumbo shrimp and topped with tobiko, covers all my fave sushi bases. But I also love the simplicity of the Hamachi Jalapeño, a fan of sliced sashimi, each piece topped with a jalapeño round and a drop of sriracha, served with ponzu. Perfection.

Abi Roll at Clarke Cooke House

Lemon Ice Cream at Get the Scoop

The bad news is you’ve missed the gorgeous strawberry ice cream made with Quonset Farm-grown berries at Get the Scoop. Alas, strawberry season is short, but fear not, because there are several sublime flavors at both locations in Newport. My favorite: the refreshing, sweet-tart lemon ice cream made with fresh citrus. If I’m feeling tropical, fresh coconut toasted in-house goes into the coconut ice cream. If you’re paying attention, you might catch blueberry pie. The owner bakes her own with locally sourced fruit and tosses them whole into the mixer with her rich, chewy-creamy vanilla ice cream. Wait ‘til the fall rolls around and she switches to apple.

Yup.

Lemon Ice Cream at Get the Scoop

 

 

 


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