The twinkly, tropical treehouse décor that marks the outdoor summertime spaces at Beech Restaurant in Jamestown hadn’t been set up when we popped over the bridge last week for dinner on a gorgeous spring evening. The pretty, glass-encased upper dining room, welcoming hosts, and Megan—the fun and friendly server whose recommendations were spot-on—were the prelude to a parade of tasty dishes that sufficed handily. When it all opens up again, it’s going to be quite a smashing summer for Beech. Make a rezzie.
From appetizers to dessert, a standout could be found in every category, and thanks to Megan, we sampled some of the best of the bunch. We kicked off our exploration with shrimp and grits and Beech’s version of sticky ribs. For those who may be familiar with the style of ribs served at Newport’s Perro Salado, I’ve got to give the edge to Beech. Theirs are a bit heftier—sticky but less cloyingly sweet—with a nice, chewy bark, tender, smoky meat beneath, and a smattering of black and white sesame seeds and scallions. Killer.
Next, a perfect balance of flavor and textures, as four shrimp sit atop a smear of creamy, buttery white corn grits dotted with small cubes of salty applewood-smoked bacon, earthy cremini mushrooms, sweet, tender leeks, and a shower of crispy microgreens that lend a delicate touch to a luscious shrimp and grits starter.
The house-made pasta at Beech includes a radiatore served with Bolognese sauce. Normally a wagon-wheel shape, these are more tube-like—the better to catch those little nubs of beef inside them for a flavor-bomb bite. The hearty pasta is perfectly al dente, and the dish comes topped with a dollop of ricotta, along with chopped scallions which, in my opinion, don’t belong there. The recipe is one of chef/operating partner Kevin Gaudreau’s specialties dating back to when the place was called Simpatico; it’s been beloved for decades by scores of regulars and adoring food fans. For my palate, it was solid but lacked the pop of brightness brought to a great Bolognese via a splash of red wine or added tomato paste. Still, I wouldn’t kick it off the table.
The blackened swordfish—a thick block of it perched on a mound of roasted tomato pilaf, sautéed spinach, and mango relish—was a home run. The super freshy-fresh fish is blackened beautifully, with the salt content contained as a subtler-than-expected foil for the sweetness of the roasted tomato, bits of mango, and starch from the wild rice blend. Though the fish might have come off the heat a minute or so sooner, the dish overall was as tasty as it gets.
We were way too stuffed for dessert, so of course we ordered some. It wasn’t our fault! Megan was at it again, insisting the bread pudding was next-level and—oh, by the way—you should probably have a scoop of salted caramel ice cream with chocolate chunks on the side, she said. The result is so sublime, it nearly defies description.
Imagine, if you will, a cinnamon roll, coffee cake, and tiramisu combined into one astounding mouthful of heaven (and NO RAISINS, thank you very much). Then, add unreasonably smooth, dense ice cream with its small slabs of dark chocolate throughout to your same spoon. Call me in the morning. And see you at Beech!
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